[TriLUG] Wireless AP recommendation

Thu Aug 24 13:50:21 EDT 2017

Yep, running cable is the annoying bit.  :)

As for Regular vs Pro... I actually have a mix of both at my house.  I have
a couple of the original UAC-AP devices attached to the outside of my
house, attached to the eave on one side, and under the deck on the other.
These use passive POE and support 2.4 and 5Ghz... but only 802.11a/b/g/n.
That's plenty of connectivity for being in the yard, or down by the lake on
my phone, and they're dirt cheap (~$60 when I bought them).  They're cheap
enough that I keep a spare in the basement, so that if one goes bad I don't
need to wait to replace it.  Well, I suppose I still have the spare mostly
because they came in a pack of 3, and I've never had one go bad.

In the "core" of the house I also have two of the UAP-AC (the older square
model <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D80J2XU>).  They support
802.11ac, and this matters to me when I'm connected with my laptop and
trying to download that large file to my laptop before I go get on a plane;
I no longer feel compelled to hook up a physical cable to get more speed.
The 802.11ac network is almost always fast enough for my needs, and I only
really care about that speed if I'm indoors.  They also have the nice
advantage of having slightly fewer dependencies (no POE injector, they hang
directly off my core switch which supports POE), so they're a *little* less
likely to stop working when I really want them to.

The latest offerings have made some of that reasoning moot, because they
now all support 802.11ac... but note that the Pro model still supports
moderately higher throughput by virtue of 3x3 MIMO support... so some of
the same logic applies... but both the -Lite and -Pro are both sufficiently
fast that it makes less of a difference.  Note that a lot of people like
the AP-LR model, although I tend to prefer more APs, rather than longer
ranges from fewer APs... it's somewhat dependent on the topology.

Aaron S. Joyner

On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 1:19 PM, Wes Garrison via TriLUG <trilug at trilug.org>
wrote:

> The regular UAC-AP supports 2.4 and 5Ghz.
>
> As Aaron said, the difference is 24V passive PoE vs. 802.3af/at PoE.
>
> For home use, the passive is fine.
>
> _________________________________
> Wesley S. Garrison
> Network Engineer
> Xitech Communications, Inc.
> phone:  (919) 260-0803
> fax:       (919) 932-5051
> __________________________________
> "Lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from email."
>
> On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Matt Flyer via TriLUG <trilug at trilug.org>
> wrote:
>
> > Great explanation!
> >
> > I did notice the two systems, the regular and "pro".  My initial
> > thinking was that the pro version would be better, primarilly as it
> > operates on 2.4 and 5 GHz, so that if you have interference issues with
> > other devices you've got an option, but I am not sure if it is worth
> > the cost.
> >
> > It looks like the big thing I will need to do is run the Ethernet cable
> > from where the AP will go to the where I plan to put the switch(es).
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 2017-08-24 at 12:50 -0400, Aaron Joyner via TriLUG wrote:
> > > Note that there are two types of POE supported by Ubiquiti APs.  The
> > > cheaper models typically support only UniFi's passive POE.  This
> > > means you
> > > can power them either with their dedicated POE injectors
> > > <https://www.ubnt.com/accessories/poe-adapters/> (they come with one,
> > > they're cheap to replace from Amazon), or with a UniFi switch which
> > > supports their passive POE.
> > >
> > > The more expensive APs (Pro, etc) support 802.3af/at POE
> > > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet> which is what
> > > you'll
> > > get from a Cisco, HP, Juniper, DLink, etc POE switch.  The basic
> > > reasoning
> > > is that the chip to do the 802.3 standard POE is expensive, so they
> > > only
> > > include it on the more expensive APs where they're not cutting every
> > > cost
> > > corner.  It allows for a nicer deployment (one cable into one switch,
> > > rather than a pile of POE injectors in a rack or a dedicated UniFi
> > > switch),
> > > but for deployments with only a handful of APs it doesn't really
> > > matter
> > > either way.
> > >
> > > POE loss over distance is unlikely to be a problem for you.  Both
> > > types of
> > > POE should be usable at a distance of 100 meters; this is the same as
> > > Ethernet over the same wiring.
> > >
> > > As for the mounting, each AP comes with a "ring" (most are round,
> > > some are
> > > square) which attaches to the wall or ceiling and an associated
> > > template.
> > > You screw down the ring, poke a hole in the sheetrock (or drop
> > > ceiling
> > > tile) in the middle of the ring, and the AP clips onto the
> > > ring.  It's a
> > > pretty nice system.  It doesn't require an electrical box, but it
> > > doesn't
> > > dress the cable and attach to conduit, if that's what you were hoping
> > > for.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 12:23 PM, Wes Garrison via TriLUG <trilug at tri
> > > lug.org
> > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You can either use the PoE brick included with the unit or buy the
> > > > 5-port
> > > > or 8-port PoE switch:
> > > > https://amzn.com/B00HXT8QKC
> > > > https://amzn.com/B00HXT8QSO
> > > >
> > > > You do NOT need AC power near the AP.  PoE spec is the same as
> > > > Ethernet:
> > > > 100m/330ft.
> > > >
> > > > It is 24V passive, NOT standard 802.11af or 802.11at.
> > > >
> > > > Finally, you don't need a mounting box, you just have a CAT5e
> > > > coming out of
> > > > the wall.  If you have the CAT5e come out of the wall exactly 2"
> > > > below the
> > > > right screw of  the mounting plate, the AP covers the hole and it
> > > > is
> > > > invisible.
> > > >
> > > > -Wes
> > > >
> > > > _________________________________
> > > > Wesley S. Garrison
> > > > Network Engineer
> > > > Xitech Communications, Inc.
> > > > phone:  (919) 260-0803
> > > > fax:       (919) 932-5051
> > > > __________________________________
> > > > "Lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from email."
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 12:07 PM, Ron Kelley via TriLUG <trilug at tri
> > > > lug.org
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > The power cord included in the box is about 3-4ft max.  As for
> > > > > using a
> > > > PoE
> > > > >
> > > > > switch, the following URL gives a good indication of power loss
> > > > > vs cable
> > > > > length:
> > > > >
> > > > > http://beyond-wifi.com/poe/poe-calc.html
> > > > >
> > > > > Ubiquity sells a PoE switch if you want to use one:
> > > > https://www.ubnt.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > accessories/toughswitch
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hope this helps.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Aug 24, 2017, at 11:57 AM, Matt Flyer via TriLUG <trilug at tri
> > > > > > lug.org
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That is a really good point.  I too am considering the "pro"
> > > > > > model with
> > > > > > the dual band.  The spec sheet for them said POE.  How far away
> > > > > > can the
> > > > > > injector or switch be?  I would like to avoid putting
> > > > > > electrical
> > > > > > outlets in the attic for them and would prefer to put the
> > > > > > injector in
> > > > > > the basement in the "IT" closet.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Thu, 2017-08-24 at 11:52 -0400, Ron Kelley wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > From what I have seen (I have the “Pro” model), you need AC
> > > > > > > power
> > > > > > > located near the unit as it requires a PoE
> > > > > > > connection.  Either your
> > > > > > > switch provides the power, your you have to use the included
> > > > > > > PoE
> > > > > > > power brick.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -Ron
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > On Aug 24, 2017, at 11:50 AM, Matt Flyer via TriLUG <trilug
> > > > > > > > @trilug.
> > > > > > > > org> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I want to thank everyone for the great feedback on the
> > > > > > > > Ubiquiti
> > > > > > > > products.  They sound like a winner.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I do have a dumb question. Do they mount to a ceiling
> > > > > > > > electrical
> > > > > > > > box or
> > > > > > > > something else?  This is new construction, so I can put
> > > > > > > > just about
> > > > > > > > anything in but would prefer to avoid having just a wire
> > > > > > > > sticking
> > > > > > > > through the sheetrock.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > On Thu, 2017-08-24 at 10:26 -0400, Matt Flyer via TriLUG
> > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The thread on Eero wifi reminded me that I am going to be
> > > > > > > > > in the
> > > > > > > > > market
> > > > > > > > > for some wireless access points.  We are in the process
> > > > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > > > building a
> > > > > > > > > house for my parents and while most of the rooms will
> > > > > > > > > have a
> > > > > > > > > wired
> > > > > > > > > jack
> > > > > > > > > (or multiple) they are rather addicted to their tablets
> > > > > > > > > and
> > > > > > > > > phones
> > > > > > > > > which will run wifi.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I was thinking of getting a couple of Ubiquity UAP-Pro
> > > > > > > > > models and
> > > > > > > > > mounting them on the ceiling, one at each end of the
> > > > > > > > > house.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Does anyone have experience with them, good or bad, and
> > > > > > > > > would you
> > > > > > > > > recommend them or recommend staying away from them and
> > > > > > > > > going with
> > > > > > > > > something else?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > This message was sent to: Ron Kelley <rkelleyrtp at gmail.com>
> > > > > > To unsubscribe, send a blank message to trilug-leave at trilug.org
> > > > > >  from
> > > > > that address.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > TriLUG mailing list : https://www.trilug.org/mailman/listinfo/t
> > > > > > rilug
> > > > > > Unsubscribe or edit options on the web        :
> > > > https://www.trilug.org/
> > > > >
> > > > > mailman/options/trilug/rkelleyrtp%40gmail.com
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Welcome to TriLUG: http://trilug.org/welcome
> > > > > --
> > > > > This message was sent to: Wes <wes at xitechusa.com>
> > > > > To unsubscribe, send a blank message to trilug-leave at trilug.org
> > > > > from
> > > > that
> > > > >
> > > > > address.
> > > > > TriLUG mailing list : https://www.trilug.org/mailman/listinfo/tri
> > > > > lug
> > > > > Unsubscribe or edit options on the web  : https://www.trilug.org/
> > > > > mailman/options/trilug/wes%40xitechusa.com
> > > > > Welcome to TriLUG: http://trilug.org/welcome
> > > > >
> > > > --
> > > > This message was sent to: Aaron S. Joyner <aaron at joyner.ws>
> > > > To unsubscribe, send a blank message to trilug-leave at trilug.org
> > > > from that
> > > > address.
> > > > TriLUG mailing list : https://www.trilug.org/mailman/listinfo/trilu
> > > > g
> > > > Unsubscribe or edit options on the web  : https://www.trilug.org/
> > > > mailman/options/trilug/aaron%40joyner.ws
> > > > Welcome to TriLUG: http://trilug.org/welcome
> > > >
> > --
> > This message was sent to: Wes <wes at xitechusa.com>
> > To unsubscribe, send a blank message to trilug-leave at trilug.org from
> that
> > address.
> > TriLUG mailing list : https://www.trilug.org/mailman/listinfo/trilug
> > Unsubscribe or edit options on the web  : https://www.trilug.org/
> > mailman/options/trilug/wes%40xitechusa.com
> > Welcome to TriLUG: http://trilug.org/welcome
> >
> --
> This message was sent to: Aaron S. Joyner <aaron at joyner.ws>
> To unsubscribe, send a blank message to trilug-leave at trilug.org from that
> address.
> TriLUG mailing list : https://www.trilug.org/mailman/listinfo/trilug
> Unsubscribe or edit options on the web  : https://www.trilug.org/
> mailman/options/trilug/aaron%40joyner.ws
> Welcome to TriLUG: http://trilug.org/welcome
>